Well I had a bite free night I think, but nearly boiled to death because I slept with my long-sleeved shirt on and my sleeping bag zipped up; lying as still as I could so no part of me extended beyond the bed-bug sheet. I eventually relented and risked sticking my arms out!

The head-torches started at 5.30am and since I don't have one getting dressed in the dark is a challenge. It's not until I get into the light, do I discover if clothing is upside-down or inside out.

Today is an Earthy day. A stunning coastal walk along an old iron-mining track, land slips with alarming cracks in the path, timber propped-tunnels, a village square decorated with mining trolleys, a long curved road tunnel and a mountain being quarried from the outside.

At Onton the yellow arrows fizzle out and I miss the track up through the woods and continue on the coastal road, which is not great walking. Slowly we drop to sea-level and through woods which is better. I am leaving Basque Country; at Castro Urdiales I'm entering the region of Cantabria.

Castro Urdiales is a large seaside town and fishing port, with a smart promenade along two beaches and harbours. At the far end is the castle and cathedral perched high on a rock. It's busy with people strolling, walking dogs and pushing prams.

I walk about 45 minutes to get there- the church is Early Gothic and the front door is open. Breathtaking and special. Spoilt only by a tour guide shouting at the top of his voice at a group of Spanish tourists. He throws me out and locks the door when he's finished, but at least I've seen it.

Then I walk back down the hill and have lunch in an arcade by the harbour- more battered anchovies. They taste nothing like the canned or pickled versions- more like a firmer, finer sardines.

I walk to the nearest albergue, which is next to the town bullring and wait until the Hospitalero to arrive at 3pm. It's a basic municipal hostel but clean with a spin dryer which is good for getting clothes dry overnight.

Then off to find a cafe with WiFi and cheap supper. I've walked about 12 miles today in 4.5 hours and got sunburnt calves.