DAY 67. 13 JULY. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA TO NEGREIRA

On the road again... 

 Fisterra also known as Finnisterre; the End of the Earth.

Fisterra also known as Finnisterre; the End of the Earth.

The first thing I do is walk to the post office near the Pilgrims' Office and post 1.5km of stuff home in a box. My sleeping bag and bits and pieces I won't need and boy I can feel the difference!

 Walking the quiet shady paths again; a little granite bridge over water.

Walking the quiet shady paths again; a little granite bridge over water.

It's a wonderful day to the start the Camino Finnisterra.  After the bustle and crowds of Santiago I'm back on narrow undulating tracks amongst bracken, wild-flowers, oak and pine forest and birdsong. Thrushes, blackbirds, tits, robins, warblers and lots of linnets on telephone wires in the meadows. I'm alone most of the morning. I meet Felix, a Spaniard who has walked from Barcelona about 1400km. I'm a mere beginner! Then later an Italian family with a sweet little boy about 7 years old. They are wheeling one of their rucksacks on the boy's scooter through the woods!

 Through oak and pine woods full of birdsong

Through oak and pine woods full of birdsong

About 11 I stop for a coffee in a nice roadside bar; there are far fewer amenities now. I order a take away ham sandwich for lunch. Everything's freshly made including the pressed orange juice.

 She hangs out in all the Galician bars.

She hangs out in all the Galician bars.

Then I'm on the road again. It's a stiff two hour slog up a never ending 300m ascent. Luckily with lots of shade because it's now very hot.

 A Camino gatepost in one of the villages

A Camino gatepost in one of the villages

It's a good long walk down the other side too, through small villages until I reach Ponte Maceira.

 The weir is spectacular  

The weir is spectacular  

An amazing place with a roaring weir and a long winding Medieval bridge. I eat my picnic sitting on the steps of an old mill watching the water thundering by and then flowing on between huge granite boulders. The village has a few houses, but it's deserted of people at this time of day.

 A bridge has a lovely sinuous curve

A bridge has a lovely sinuous curve

Then a gentle shady riverside walk until I reach Negreira, where I book into the municipal albergue which is at the far end of town up another hill. I'm in the pine panelled attic in a real bed! The Italian couple and boy are opposite; I'm very impressed he's managed that hill. Felix the Swiss guy is miles ahead probably!

 Negreira  

Negreira  

Washing washed, a big Salad Mixte eaten in a local bar and then bed. I'm tired it's been an 18 mile day.

 On the edge of the town  

On the edge of the town